Car Consoles & 4WD Storage Drawers - Department of the Interior - overhead consoles, roof consoles, custom built consoles, 4WD interiors, storage systems, vehicle consoles, radio console, dashboard pod, four wheel drive.

You are in Products -> Toyota -> Landcruiser 80 Series -> Low Profile Centre Roof Console

To and including 11/'94 with altimeter fuel gauge

12/'94 on with altimeter fuel gauge

12/'94 on with altimeter fuel gauge

12/'94 on 80 Series DX (i.e. to suit vehicle without the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly.)

To and including 11/'94 80 Series DX (i.e. to suit vehicle without the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly.)

Low Profile Centre Roof Console from $360

Click here for prices of accessories and options.

These photos display four of several variations on the centre roof console design available for this vehicle.

Points of Interest:

Robust construction - Suitably durable for off road driving. Manufactured from steel and hardwood plywood - NO PLASTIC.
The shape of the base of the console can be custom made to suit your radio(s) and other requirements.
Radio holes and storage openings etc. cut to suit your requirements and accessories.
Designed for maximum headroom without interfering with the sunvisors or any other functions of the vehicle.
Fits the vehicle without drilling any holes by utilising the rear view mirror captive nuts and interior light screw holes.
Upholstered in a vinyl or velour finish.
A vacuum formed finish is also available for this roof console. This is a foam backed, heat shrunk, one wrap (no seams) finish similar to the finish on the dashboard. Click here for prices.
For vehicles fitted with the altimeter / fuel gauge assembly on the roof, removal of this assembly reveals an opening in the hoodlining. Our consoles have been designed to take advantage of this opening. The radio fitted into the front of the console can protrude past the top of the console, sitting in the space between the hoodlining and the turret. This design allows the console to be less intrusive and allows the front radio to sit further forward making it easier to see and operate.
Designed so the radio curly cords are out of view.
We manufacture our consoles in weekly batches. If we receive an order by Monday 5:30pm Sydney time your console will be dispatched on the following Friday. The dispatch date can vary if there is a public holiday.
Professional fitting service available.

Your centre roof console will be designed to suit your specific model vehicle. It will neatly follow the contours of your hoodlining and will be the ideal width to suit the distance between your sunvisors. The length of the console takes into account the mounting system for the console, the shape of the cabin and when applicable, headroom for the rear seat passengers. When calculating the depth of the console we allow for maximum headroom and a clear view for the rear vision mirror. As no two model vehicles are the same our "vehicle specific" consoles are the best available.

In addition to being "vehicle specific" we also "custom build" each console to suit your requirements - nobody else does that! We adjust the shape of the base of the console to suit your radio(s) storage or lighting requirements. When custom building your console we can build a slim line console for maximum headroom or a deeper console for maximum storage. We can make the console's radio housing(s) as small as your radio(s) will allow providing more headroom and moving your radio(s) closer to the windscreen for better access. Another advantage of this versatility of design, most modern radios have a LCD (liquid crystal display) screen. It is easier to read the LCD when you are looking square onto the screen. Whenever possible, we change the angle on the console's facia panel to suit the radio being fitted.

MICROPHONE CURLY CORD RETAINER

A piece of "one wrap" hook and loop tape is supplied with each roof console (one retainer for each radio) to prevent your microphone curly cord from dangling and blocking your view. Simply screw this retainer onto the console in a suitable position between the radio and the microphone clip, then wrap the tape around the curly cord. If you need the full length of the curly cord, the "one wrap" tape is easy to release and re-attach.

Below are some sketches to show you some of the possible variations available for centre roof consoles.

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS: For vehicles fitted with the genuine roof mounted altimeter/fuel gauge assembly.

Introduction
This centre roof console is mounted without drilling any holes in the vehicle. The front mounting bracket on the console utilises the original mounting points ( four captive nuts in total ) for the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly and the rear vision mirror. The back of the console is held in place by utilising the interior light screw holes. The interior light is re-mounted into the pre-cut hole in the base of the console. The genuine altimeter/fuel gauge is also re-mounted into a pre-cut hole in the console. The genuine map reading light that is part of the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly can be mounted in the console. After market eyeball lights are available and they can be fitted next to the interior light at the back of the console. This is a better position for map lights because the light can be directed so it doesn't shine in the drivers eyes. All wiring can be installed without drilling any holes or cutting the trim. The wiring and wiring plug for the genuine map light can be used to power and earth your radio(s) and after market eyeball lights. There is one 10amp fuse for the genuine car radio, the genuine map light and the two genuine interior lights. Since the genuine map lights are now discarded the following fuse sizes are recommended:
- if fitting one CB to the console the 10 amp fuse is adequate.
- if fitting one CB and some after market map lights (up to two globes), the 10amp fuse is adequate.
- if fitting two CBs the 10amp fuse is adequate.
- if fitting two CBs and some after market map lights (up to two globes), replace the 10 amp fuse with a 15amp fuse.

*S.A.O. - Storage/Access Opening.
An oval shaped hole with an elasticised vinyl flap. The flap keeps the stored items in and most of the red dust out. The S.A.O. also allows access to fuses or to V.S.W.R. in a radio. The S.A.O. does cost extra bickies.

STEP 1. Remove the front interior light, the roof mounted altimeter/fuel gauge/map light assembly and the rear vision mirror.

STEP 2. Hold the console in position to check the fit. Make sure you have received the correct console, in good order, before cutting any holes in the console.

STEP 3. If your console has a *S.A.O. remove the carpet on the base of the storage area.

STEP 4. Fit your radio(s) and accessories into the console. - see the "instructions on installing a radio into a console" and the "radio fitting kit" supplied with the console.

STEP 5. Prepare the roof console to accept the genuine interior light. Firstly, cut out the vinyl covering the hole in the plywood for the interior light. The vinyl should be cut flush with the edges of the hole to allow a clear view when screwing the console into position. This hole is covered by the base of the light, cutting this hole will not effect the upholstered finish. Place the interior light on the base of the console, covering the hole, with the light switch facing the driver's side (the switch must be facing the driver's side for the hole to accept the shape of the back of the interior light). Ensure that the interior light is sitting flush on the console and in the centre of the console. Using the four 20mm, 8 gauge self tapping screws supplied with the "console fitting kit", screw the interior light onto the console. Do not attempt to drill any holes through the upholstery, the self tapping screws do not need a hole to screw into the three ply console base. MAKE SURE THE SCREWS ARE NOT TOO CLOSE TO THE EDGES OF THE PLYWOOD HOLE. Remove the interior light from the console to allow access to the consoles rear mounting screw holes. It is now a simple procedure to re-mount the interior light after the console is fitted.

STEP 6. Remove the four metal thread screws that hold the altimeter and fuel gauges into the assembly. Place the gauges into the front of the console so that the two plastic mounting lugs sit flush on the 20mm wide plywood panel. Check that the face of the gauges is sitting correctly into the hole in the console. Using the two 13mm 10 gauge self tapping screws supplied with the "console fitting kit", screw the plastic lugs onto the 20mm wide plywood panel.

STEP 7. HOW TO RUN YOUR WIRING OR AERIAL LEADS TO THE CONSOLE:

ALTERNATIVE A:

- for those who wish to utilise the discarded wiring for the genuine map lights and only have an aerial lead(s) to run under the trim.

There is a small recess under the trim along both windscreen pillars that is large enough to accommodate ** one aerial lead. To access this recess, remove the pinch weld (the rubber door seal) along the pillar and at the top of the door opening. Peel back the vinyl trim covering the windscreen pillar. Starting under the dashboard, thread the aerial lead up through the dashboard, along the recess in the pillar, then above the hood lining. Removal of the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly has revealed an opening in the centre of the hoodlining. Using a piece of fencing wire or similar, pull your aerial lead(s) across the roof above the hoodlining and out through the opening in the centre. Be sure to leave enough spare wire to reach down to the seat. This will make it easier to connect your wiring to the radio(s) before fitting the console. The excess wire can be coiled up inside the console.

** If you are running two aerial leads, run them separately, with only one along each windscreen pillar. This looks neater and will also give you less interference when operating your CB radios.

ALTERNATIVE B:

- for those who are running bulky wiring that will not fit into the recess along the windscreen pillar E.g. wiring for a flying doctor radio.

Removal of the altimeter/fuel gauge assembly reveals an opening in the hood lining. Pull down a section of the pinch weld (the rubber door seal) next to the passenger's side centre door pillar. Remove the grab handle. Peal back the hoodlining to allow access for a draw wire. Using a piece of fencing wire or similar pull your wiring across the roof above the hoodlining from the centre of the roof to the passenger's door. Be sure to leave enough spare wire to reach down to the seat. This will make it easier to connect your wiring to the radio(s) before fitting the console. The excess wire can be coiled up inside the console. Remove the plastic pillar cover, the scuff plate and the kick panel. Using your draw wire, pull the wiring down through the door pillar. Then run the wiring under the carpet and up under the dashboard.

STEP 8. Place the console on the dashboard or the seat. Connect the wiring and check that the radio(s) and accessories are operational before installing the console. If your console has a *S.A.O. you may wish to position your wiring or fuses at the back of the console to allow easy access without removing the console.

STEP 9. Make sure the interior light wire is long enough to reach past the base of the console. A gentle pull will free up some extra length of this wire. In most cases it will not be necessary to extend this wire. When fitting the console make sure you don't sandwich this wire between the consoles wooden spacer and the steel roof support channel.

STEP 10. Coil up any excess wire while lifting the console into position. Reconnect the wiring plug for the altimeter and fuel gauges. Thread the interior light wire down through the hole in the console for the interior light. Press the console firmly onto the hoodlining. Ensure that all eight mounting points line up with the captive nuts and screw holes in the vehicle.

STEP 11. Using the two 5mm x 20mm metal thread screws supplied in the "console fitting kit", (the genuine screws are not long enough) attach the rear vision mirror back into the original position. Do not tighten the screws yet, this will allow the back of the console to move enough to line up the rear mounting screw holes.

STEP 12. Using the four 38mm x 10 gauge self tapping screws and the four washers supplied in the "console fitting kit", screw the back of the console to the original interior light mounting screw holes. The interior light earth wire supplied with the "console fitting kit" should be attached between the washer and the head of one of these four mounting screws. You will need a no.2 phillips head screw driver with a shaft at least 200mm long for a deep profile roof console or at least 150mm long for a low profile roof console. (The longer the screwdriver the easier it will be to fit the console.)

STEP 13. Connect the interior light wiring plug, then run the earth wire through the hole in the interior light. Re-mount the interior light onto the base of the console and use one of the mounting screws to connect the earth wire to one of the earth contact points on the interior light. Position the earth wire so it won't be affected by the heat generated from the interior light globe.

STEP 14. There are two 25mm x 6mm metal thread screws left over after removing the altimeter/fuel gauge/map light assembly. These two screws are now used for the remaining two mounting points on the front bracket. There are three snap caps (one spare) provided in the "console fitting kit" to cover the heads of these screws for a professional finish.

STEP 15. Tighten up the rear vision mirror mounting screws. Attach the plastic rear vision mirror base cover provided in the "console fitting kit".

STEP 16. If your console has a *S.A.O. , replace the carpet inside the storage area.